This is not an exhaustive guide to all of your camp needs. This is a guide that will give you some information as far as what to look for in gear. I have also included my biased opinion on some gear because of its reliability, fair price, and usefulness. The gear I suggest is the stuff I use, have done research on, and found to be the best available for the price.
One thing I want to emphasize before I go on. You get what you pay for. If you buy stuff from a local department store, for the most part, it won't hold up, it will not give you the comfort you want, and when it breaks, you're stuck with it. Whereas, if you buy quality gear, it will make life more comfortable while using it, it will hold up, and if it ever breaks or fails to work, the manufacturer will be helpful in taking care of the problem--sometimes replacing the product and always making things right.
The equipment included in this chapter is as follows:
--tents--sleeping pads--sleeping bags--backpacks--cook stoves--bootsTents
When choosing a tent, choose one that meets the needs of your adventures. Keep in mind the weather you camp in, the weight you want to carry, the terrain you will hike in, and the size and number of occupants.
Weather--if you are a summer backpacker, a good 3-season tent will do the job. If you are into winter adventures and do them on a regular basis, look into 4 season tents.
Weight--the basic rule of thumb is to never take a tent that weighs more than 3 pounds per person occupying the tent.
Terrain--If you camp on a lot of rocky surfaces, a freestanding tent is a good choice. If you hike on softer ground, one that uses stakes works great especially when it is windy.
Size and number of occupants--when looking at a tent, look at the footprint. Is it rectangular, square, round? A rectangular or square tent usually has more useful space. Make sure you can fit comfortably in the space. As for the number of occupants, plan on between 16-20 square feet per person. I personally like about 32 square feet for a 2-man tent. It is plenty big enough and it is lightweight.
So, now you know what to look for, but what do you actually buy? Well, here goes, Gary's advice on tent purchasing.
I believe that a three-season tent will serve any purpose on the Kenai Peninsula and adjoining areas. A four-season tent is really "cool", but it is usually heavier and a lot more expensive. For the amount of time I camp in the winter, a three-season tent does just fine for me.
First of all, I only buy two-person tents for backpacking. The reasons for this are: they're usually quicker to set up, they are lighter, and they take up less ground, therefore making it easier to find a camping spot.
When looking for a three-season tent, the first thing I look for is the most square feet possible with the least amount of weight. I never look at a two-person tent with less than 32 square feet of living space with a weight of more than 5 pounds 10 ounces. Once I have narrowed my search down to tents within these guidelines, I begin looking in depth at each one to see if they meet my other criteria.
Other Criteria:
Rain Fly--the rain fly must do its job. In order to do this, it must extend to the ground on all sides and stay taught to better direct rain off it. Make sure either you or the manufacturer or both seal the seams or it will leak where the thread holes are.Windows--In Alaska, having lots of windows in a tent is very important. Probably the main reason I like lots of windows is the fact that there are 40 bazillion mosquitoes in the state and all of them find me. So, I hole up in my tent and am still able to enjoy the surroundings. Windows also cut down on tent weight.Vestibule--A vestibule is a small "mud room" before entering your tent. It should be big enough to drop off your boots and cook under if necessary. If you are lucky, you may find one big enough to fit your pack in. It should also be designed so it is not impossible to get into the tent. Some vestibules make it difficult to get in and out of the tent.Tent Tips:
Never buy a tent without trying it out. Get inside, stretch out, and see if you will fit comfortably. Examine it for convenience, construction quality, and ease of setup.
Seam seal your tent even if the manufacturer did it. Set up the tent, put on the rain fly inside out, and seal along each seam covering all needle holes.
Stuff your tent into its stuff sack (thus the name) rather than folding it. Folding it the same way every time will cause weak points in the fabric.
Never store a tent that is wet. It only takes about 48 hours for mold to start to grow.
When setting up your tent, do so gently. Slide the poles through the fabric, don't shove 'em.
Never force anything. If you have to, you're doing it wrong.
Be gentle with the zippers
Before setting up your tent, lay on the ground where you want to set it up to see if it is comfortable
Always use a ground cloth to protect the floor of the tent. Idea: buy a tarp from K-mart, set the tent up on top of it and cut out the footprint of your tent. Then cut off an additional 2 inches all the way around to keep rain from channeling under your tent. You have then saved about $30.00 on a purchased footprint.
When storing your tent, store poles put together to add to the life of the elastic connectors.
Sleeping Pads
Sleeping pads serve a dual purpose. First of all, they are used as a cushion to keep you from sleeping on the hard, rocky ground. Second--and probably most important, they are used as insulators. The ground in Alaska is cold at night and the pad keeps your body off the cold ground. I never realized how important the second attribute was until I tried to cut down on my weight on one trip and didn't bring my sleeping pad. Needless to say, I froze all night long. When looking for a good sleeping pad, look for one that is lightweight, durable, and "cushiony". There are several types of pads. These include:
closed cell foam--this is lightweight, waterproof, cheap, and indestructible, but not comfortable or compressible. Cost: $10-$60
open-cell foam--this is lightweight, comfortable, and compressible, but drinks up all water in sight. Cost: $40-$70
self-inflating pad--this is actually open-cell foam encased in an airtight and watertight cover. Open the valve and a few minutes later, the mattress has filled with air, close the valve and you're ready for bed. When packing up, open the valve and roll the pad up into a very compressed package. These pads are nice, but expensive and can be punctured and rendered worthless unless you carry duct tape. The are also heavier than other pads--but worth it I think. Cost: $50-$80
Sleeping pads are not an option on my trips. They are a must if you want to stay warm and comfortable. Of the options available, I choose the self-inflating pad. I like to be able to blow the pad up to get it as firm as I like. I also like to be able to compress it into a small package. And finally, to keep down on the weight, I use a 3/4-length pad.
Pad Tips:
--Self-inflating pads should be stored with the valve open and unrolled.
--Remember when blowing air into a self-inflating pad you are also putting moisture into the pad, which can mildew, in the inside.
--Always protect the pad by keeping it in a stuff sack when hiking
--Bug dope can damage pads
Sleeping Bags
The most vital piece of gear in my book. The sleeping bag determines not only how well you enjoy the 8 hours or so you are in it, but also how well you function the following day based on the 8 hours you spent in it. Therefore, never scrimp and take second best when choosing a bag for your Alaskan experiences.
There are basically 3 types of bags available: the mummy, the rectangular, and the modified mummy.
Mummy--A form-fitting bag with a hood. The bag tapers from the shoulders to the legs with little "wiggle room". This tight fit means less heat loss, therefore making a warmer bag.
Rectangular--Basically, a rectangular bag (thus the name) with lots of foot room.
Modified mummy--A form-fitting bag with a hood. The bag tapers from the knees down and is wider in the torso area.
Good quality sleeping bags come with a temperature rating from the manufacturer. Plan on spending more money the lower the temperature rating is. But also remember that the manufacturer is rating the sleeping bag and each manufacturer rates their bags differently. Therefore, the temperature rating is very subjective.
So, here are my suggestions when determining a temperature rating for your sleeping bag. First of all, determine if you are a hot or cold sleeper. If you like lots of blankets and are always well covered no matter what the temperature, you are a cold sleeper. If you like the window open even in the winter and are kicking off covers throughout the night, you are a hot sleeper. Keep this in mind when shopping.
Next, determine the minimum temperature you will be sleeping in. In Alaska in the summer, plan on about 35 degrees. In winter, well, your guess is as good as mine. Once you decide the temperature you will be sleeping in, subtract 10 degrees. Hot or cold sleepers should adjust that by 5 degrees up or down. So, you would be about right by choosing a sleeping bag with a temperature rating of about 25 degrees for summer sleeping.
Shell Material
The shell is the outer material of the sleeping bag. Sleeping bag manufacturers use many types of materials but the best ones seem to be:
DryLoft--more water resistant, but doesn't breathe very well
Microfiber--breathes well and are lighter than DryLoft, but less water resistant
Ripstop--very durable nylon and polyester fabric and is probably the most commonly used
Fill Material
The fill material is the stuff inside the bag that keeps you warm. There are also lots of different materials used for sleeping bags. Here are a few:
--hollofil or quallofil--let's just say "Not in Alaska"
--down--the best insulator out there. Important. When it gets wet, it is worthless because it completely loses its insulation properties and takes forever to dry. If in Alaska, don't use one unless you know you can keep it dry.
--polarguard 3D--this is good stuff. This fill is durable and warm although it is a little heavier. This is the stuff most good bags are made of. This is the "cream of the crop".
Features you should consider after the above has been chosen:
brushed lining--soft flannel rather than cold nylon
insulated draft collar--look for a puffy collar to cinch around your neck to keep cold air out and warm air in
hood--since you lose most of your body heat through your head, this is a must.
storage bag--an oversized cloth bag used to store your sleeping bag in when not in use to keep it clean and the loft from compressing.
insulated zipper draft tube--a tube running the length of the zipper hanging down from the upper half of the bag to protect you from chilly breezes trying to sneak in through the zipper.
length of the bag--make sure the bag is about 4" longer than you are. This gives you a little foot room as well as a little room to keep socks, etc. in so they are warm in the morning
Always, always try out a bag before you buy it. It should be snug but not tight. The zippers should zip quickly and easily. Shake the bag to see if the fill moves around--it shouldn't. Test the recovery of the loft by pushing down on the bag with your hand, then let up quickly. The loft should pop back up in a few seconds.
Sleeping bag tips:
-store things you want to keep warm in your bag with you while you sleep
-lay damp socks and shirts next to your body in the bag, they will be dry by morning
-maintain your body temperature after hiking by getting out of sweaty clothes and have something to eat and drink. It's easier to maintain your body temperature than to try to get it jumpstarted just before bed
-hydrate. Your body can't convert food to useable energy without water
-when you have to pee, get up and go. It takes energy to heat the extra fluid
-wear a hat. Up to 80% of body heat is lost through the head
-keep your bag dry. A wet bag never feels warm. Pack your bag in a waterproof stuff sack or garbage bag
-fill a bottle with warm water and sleep with it between your legs
-keep a snack handy to "refill your tank"
-after you crawl into your sleeping bag, do 20 sit-ups to get the blood pumping
Backpacks
When discussing packs it is important to realize that the backpack becomes your means of carrying all your necessary possessions into the wilderness. The key word here is "carry". You, I said YOU, will be carrying the stuff. Therefore, it is important to realize, in the comfort of your home, that you cannot carry 120 pounds of cool gear and still enjoy your trip. Carrying 120 pounds and "fun" do not ever go together. The rule of thumb is to not carry more than 25% of your body weight. If your pack weighs more than this, take something out. After years of experience, I still take things because "I might need them". Don't. I remember one time when hiking the Resurrection Trail coming upon a man with a pack weighing 80 pounds. It was filled with things like canned food and books to read along the way. I met him after hiking 20 miles. It was my second day of hiking and his eighth. With the weight he was carrying, he had a difficult time hiking more than a couple miles a day and he was miserable the entire time.
Backpacks use a capacity rating to let you know how much stuff they hold. This rating is worthless as far as I'm concerned. How many of us know how much 3,500 cubic inches is anyway? So here's the scoop on picking the right size pack for the trip:
--2500 to 3000 cu in. These packs hold a small sleeping bag and minimal gear for warm weather. It can also be used as a daypack.
--3000-4500 cu in. Good for weekend trips in Alaska. Will hold sleeping bag, warm clothes, and food.
--4500-6000 cu in. Long weekend to weeklong trips with ease. Make sure you only put 25% of body weight in this pack. Because of its size, it is easy to fill it up then not be able to lift it up. This is the normal size most packers use.
--6000+ cu in. Only for psychos looking for torturous means of slowly and painfully killing themselves by filling it up and attempting to carry it. The only use I can find for this pack is if you are in need of carrying your car into the wilderness.
Things to look for when purchasing a backpack:
--Make sure the pack is suited to fit your size. When trying to determine if the pack will fit you, find out what torso size range it will fit. Your torso is the length from the big bone sticking out the back of your neck when you bend your head down to the low point between your hipbones. To find this point, place a hand on each hip with your thumbs pointing in. The line between your thumbs is what you are measuring to. 18-20 inches is about normal.
--The hip belt--This belt fits around your waist and rides ON your hips, not around them. The belt will carry the majority of your pack weight (80%) so it should be thick and wide and comfortable.
--The shoulder straps--These should also be wide and thick and comfortable and recurved with a chest compression strap.
--Make sure the pack has side compression straps to squeeze the pack down so things don't shift while hiking.
--Load lifter straps go from the top of your shoulder strap up to the frame. Tighten them and loosen them to move the load off or on shoulders while hiking.
--Another factor I look for when buying a pack is the number of pockets it has. The more the better for me. This keeps me from having to dig through everything to find that much needed Snicker Bar that has worked its way to the bottom of the pack.
--One final item when choosing a pack that many overlook is the weight of the pack. Packs can weight anywhere from 4.5 -- 7.5 pounds. This is part of your 25% carrying weight. Make sure the bells and whistles that add to the weight are worth it.
External Frame Packs. These packs are as the name implies--the frame is on the outside of the pack. They carry the weight higher than internal frames adding to comfort and better posture. They also keep your gear off of your back keeping you cooler. The external is also nice because you have the frame to lash a lot of stuff you may need along the way. Externals often cost less than internals.
Internal Frame Packs. Having the frame inside the pack has lots of advantages. The streamlined shape allows you to bushwhack through brush without getting your pack hung up on alders and willows. The body-hugging pack also helps you when you are off trail hiking to maintain your balance. Also, it is generally more comfortable for longer trips.
So, which do you buy? If you are doing off trail hiking, plan on taking the pack on an airplane, and want the pack to hug your back which keeps it from swinging around when you hike, get an internal frame. If you stay on the trail, like to hang things on your pack, and don't like a sweaty back, get an external.
OK, so how do I put this thing on my back and adjust it so I'm the most comfortable. To put the pack on, first of all lift it and rest it on your knee. Then lower a shoulder and slip the shoulder strap onto your shoulder, then put your arm through the other shoulder strap. If you have picked a pack that fits your torso length, you are off to a good start. To buckle the hip belt, bend over so the pack weight is on your back rather than on your hips allowing the hip belt to be free to snug it up tightly. Now adjust your shoulder straps aiming for 70%-80% of the weight on your hips.
Adjusting an internal frame pack:
--the top of the hip belt should ride at or slightly below the top of the pelvis
--the frame stays (the internal aluminum bars extending the length of the pack) should extend 2-4 inches above the shoulder
--the shoulder straps should attach to the pack 2 inches below your shoulders
--the lower ends of the shoulder straps should run about 5 inches below your armpits
--the sternum strap should cross your chest below the collarbone
Adjustments can be made while hiking as comfort levels change and pack shifts.
Loading an internal frame pack:
--bulky light gear low in the pack and heavier gear on top, if you are hiking on steep terrain, then move the weight lower and closer to your back to lower the center of gravity and give you better balance.
--a general rule is to have 50% of the weight in the upper third of the pack
--think of the things you'll need that day and pack them within easy reach
--for protection from rain, line your pack with a garbage bag, or individually pack gear in zip-loc bags
Tips:
--when picking up a loaded pack, use both shoulder straps, not one, or grab the haul loop on the top inside of the pack.
--don't over tighten straps; this puts extra stress on the seams
--use a rain cover to protect pack from getting saturated which can lead to mold
--keep it out of the mud and dirt
--don't pack pointed objects that may puncture the fabric
--don't store food in your pack. Rodents will enjoy chewing through the fabric looking for that chocolate chip cookie from home
Cook Stoves
There are basically two types of stoves: those that use liquid fuel (white gas) and those that use compressed gas in cylinders. Liquid fuel stoves require pumping and priming to work, but are more efficient, work better in cold weather, and fuel is easier to obtain. Compressed gas is easy to use and maintain, easy to control temperature, but it is difficult to determine amount of fuel left, and canister disposal is a problem.
Since instructions come with any stove purchased, I will not elaborate on stove operation. I will though, offer my points of view as to what to look for in a stove:
--again, weight is a major consideration. Stoves weigh from several ounces to several pounds. Try to keep the weight of the stove to under a pound.
--don't buy a fancy stove with fancy fuel that you can only buy at one store in Clifton, Ohio. Find a stove that uses fuel readily available anywhere.
--find out how long it takes to boil a quart of water. You really want one that can boil a quart in less than 4 minutes, 3 minutes being the best. Being in a hurry is not the issue here, using as little fuel as possible is.
--find out how long a canister or pint of fuel will last
--decide if you want auto ignition or not. This adds to weight and cost and is the first thing to malfunction.
--make sure the flame is adjustable
--make sure you can adjust the flame without burning your fingers
--make sure the stove is stable
Boots
Boots are your ticket to a good trip or a painful one. Don't scrimp on your boots. You get what you pay for and if you buy a cheap pair of boots you'll get more than what you paid for in the form of blisters, sore feet, and miserable hiking.
Let's start out with what type of boot you want.
--Trail boots--if you hike fast, carry a light load, and stick to well maintained flat trails, these boots work great. Since they are made from lightweight fabric, you'll need to make sure you get them lined with Gore-tex. Never cut corners and not buy Gore-tex. Your feet will get wet without it--trust me on this one. Make sure you get boots that are mids. Without some sort of ankle support, you are looking for trouble.
--Off trail boots--The full grain leather uppers, above the ankle support, and sole stability, add what is needed to enjoy a trip taking you off the trail and over any terrain with a pack. The leather requires a break in time, but the boots will last years and keep your feet happy.
There are other types of boots available, but since this is a book strictly on backpacking, I won't go into mountaineering boots, etc.
Knowing the boot:
--the sole is normally glued to the rest of the boot rather than stitched as in years past to prevent leaking.
-the uppers are made of one of the following:
--full-grain leather--the full thickness of the cow hide, they will last longer, and are more waterproof than split-grain leather.--split-grain leather--the inner part of the hide has been split from the supportive, waterproof outer side.--nubuk leather--full-grain leather that has been abraded to give it the look of suede.How to determine if the boot fits correctly. To fit a boot, start with your size. Someone who knows what they are doing should measure your size and width. Go to REI in Anchorage if you want a good fit. Make sure you try the boot on with the socks you will be wearing while hiking. Also remember that as you hike, your feet swell; so don't get a boot that is too snug.
Things to watch for when searching for the perfect boot. Check the fit in the heel compared to the forefoot. You want a snug heel allowing a minimal amount of slippage (1/4-1/2 inch). Make sure you can wiggle your toes.
Since you are spending a lot of money on boots (don't spend over $200), take your time on the selection and fit. Walk around. Go up and down stairs, tip toe, bang your toes into a wall to make sure the foot doesn't slip. If the fit is "iffy", keep looking.
Boot Care.
--never put them close to a fire to dry. The heat not only dries out the leather, but also reactivates the cement that can tear the sole from the upper.
--at the end of the trip, use a toothbrush to brush away dirt to keep the lace rivets from rusting, and the stitching from corroding.
Break in a pair of boots before the trip. Start with short walks around the neighborhood.
